| Travel Guide |
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People
China is a very diverse place with large variations in culture, language,
customs, and economic levels. The economic landscape is particularly
diverse. The major cities such as Beijing, Guangzhou and Shanghai
are rich and modern. However, more than half the population, some
800 million rural residents, still live as peasants, farming with
manual labour or draft animals, or performing other low skill jobs
(if employed at all). Many of these men and women live in severe poverty.
A Chinese government estimate as of 2005 had 90 million living on
under ¥ 924 ($112 US) a year; 26 million were under the official
poverty line, ¥ 668 ($81 US) a year.
China has recently experienced a huge economic explosion, and many
rural residents (over 200 million by some estimates) have moved to
the cities to become migrant workers, or sometimes businessmen. This
has created a two-tier social structure in most cities. On the one
hand, there are the more sophisticated urbanites, and on the other,
their more rustic cousins. While the two sometimes have roughly equal
economic footing, the latter group often tends to behave in a manner
that many people (local or foreign) find inappropriate. However, these
behaviors are usually benign in nature. The lesson is this: keep an
open mind; if you do this, you'll find that behind the idiosyncratic
and sometimes plainly unrefined and coarse manners, people tend to
be warm and friendly.
Things you can expect from many Chinese people are:
- Spitting: in the street, shops, supermarkets,
hotel lobbies, hallways, or even in restaurants and hospitals.
- "Hello": Numerous calls of
"hello" just about anywhere outside of the big cities
(and even there, occasionally).
- laowài (??) literally means "old
(and thus respected) outsider", a colloquial term for "foreigner";
the more formal term is wàiguórén (???).
Calls of "laowai" are ubiquitous outside of the big
cities (and even there, occasionally); these calls will come from
just about anyone, of any age, and can occur many times in any
given day.
- Staring: Common through most of the country.
The staring usually originates out of sheer curiosity, almost
never out of hostility.
- Loud Conversations, Discussions or Public Arguments:
These are very common and sometimes take place at inappropriate
times and/or at inappropriate places. Full-blown fights involving
physical violence are less common but do occur with a fair degree
of frequency. If you witness such an event, do not get involved.
- Pushing, Shoving and/or Breaking Queues: This
often occurs anywhere where there are queues, particularly at
train stations.
- General Disregard of Local and/or National
Laws especially "No Smoking" signs.
None of these behaviors are considered acceptable by the majority
of well-educated Chinese. However, they are so ubiquitous that
you are better off trying your best to ignore them, with the possible
exception of someone getting in front of you in a queue (unless
the person has a very legitimate reason to do so).
Some long-time foreign residents say that over the past few years
these problems have been getting considerably worse in many major
cities, Chengdu being a glaring example. This is almost certainly
due to an even larger influx of "rustic cousins" to
the larger cities.
Climate
Southeast Guizhou is a good place for a visit all the year round.
The weather here is subtropical. It is neither too cold in winter
nor too hot in summer. If you are fascinating with the Ethnic Customs,
the best time to there is during the Spring Festival Holidays and
in early spring. The local festivals are mainly celebrated in this
month.
The average annual temperature is 14°C-18°C. The average
temperature in January, the coldest month, is 5°C-8°C; and
that in July, the hottest month, is 24°C-28°C.
Temperatures differ due to the different geographic location and
terrain. Generally speaking, the temperature in the south is higher
than in the north, and that of the east is higher than in the west.
The annual sunshine time is 1,068 hours to 1,296 hours. The frost-free
period is 270 to 330 days a year, and the annual rainfall is 1,000
to 1,500 millimeters and the relative humidity is 78-84%.
Tips for Planning a Trip:
If you are fascinating with the Ethnic Customs, the best time to
there is during the Spring Festival Holidays and in early Spring.
The local festivals are mainly celebrated in this month.
Avoid visiting there during the May Holidays ( the 1st week of
May) and National Holidays ( the 1st week of October), for there
will be much more domestic tourists than other times.
There is old sayings that "No sunny days can last more than
3 days in Guizhou". All the year along is the rainy season
here, especially in the late Spring and early Summer. Do bring an
small umbrella with you
Holidays
China is a huge country with endless travel opportunities. However,
during holidays, tickets of any kind are hard to come by and the rates
for hotel rooms skyrocket. It can be quite difficult to find a seat
of any kind, especially for those traveling from remote western China
to the east coast or in the opposite direction.
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Chinese New Year Dates
- 2007 - 18 February
- 2008 - 7 February
- 2009 - 26 January
- 2010 - 14 February
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China has three major annual holidays:
· National Day, October 1 · Chinese New Year
or Spring Festival (?? chunjié), late January to mid February
· Labour Day (May Day), May 1
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These aren't one-day holidays: workers get at least
a week or two off for Chinese New Year and one week is common for
both National Day and Labour Day. Students generally get at least
four weeks off at Spring Festival and a 9-day (two weekends framing
a work week) break for the other two.
Also, during early July millions of university students go home and
in late August they return to school, jamming transportation options,
especially between the east coast and the western provinces of Sichuan,
Tibet, and Xinjiang.
At these times, traveling should be planned well in advance or even
reconsidered all together. Tens of millions of migrant workers return
home and millions of other Chinese travel. Any mode of transportation
is crowded and it may be necessary to book well in advance. Also various
travel services such as hotels raise their prices for the high season.
Spring Festival is especially busy. Not
only is it the longest holiday, it is also a traditional time
to visit family, much as Christmas is in the West. More or
less all the university students (20-odd million of them!) go home,
and more or less all the migrant workers who have left their farms
and villages for better pay in the cities go home. This is often the
only chance they have. Everyone wants to go home, and China has a
lot of "everyone"! History
The first civilizations in China arose in the Yangtse and Yellow river
valleys at about the same time as Mesopotamia, Egypt and India developed
their first civilizations.
For centuries China stood as a leading civilization, outpacing the
rest of the world in the arts and sciences. Paper and gunpowder, for
example, are Chinese inventions and Chinese developments in astronomy,
medicine and other fields were extensive. |
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China also explored the world and traded extensively
with other nations. By the 5th-6th centuries AD, voyages to India
and the Arab countries were routine. There is evidence of Chinese
voyages to East Africa, Australia and the Americas as well. However,
China has always been inward-looking. China is the "middle kingdom".
The Emperor did not receive ambassadors, only tribute bearers. Around
1425, China turned inward with a vengeance. Records of the great trading
voyages were destroyed and the ships allowed to rot.
When Western traders arrived in the 16th century, China was initially
hostile to them. The emperor allowed trade only at Canton (Guangzhou)
and imposed a range of restrictions. The first Western base was Portugal's
colony Macau, near Canton.
By the 19th century, various Western powers had taken various pieces
of China and trade was well established. Westerners tended to see
China as corrupt and decadent, Chinese to see the West as greedy and
contemptible. Both were at least partly right.
Several wars were fought in China in that century.
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- Two Opium Wars pitted China against Western powers. China quickly
lost both wars.
- After the first one, Britain got Hong ong and five "treaty
ports" — Guangzhou, Xiamen, Fuzhou, Shanghai and Ningbo
— were opened to Western trade
- After the second, inland cities such as Nanjing and Wuhan were
opened to trade
- The Tai Ping Rebellion was led by a madman claiming to be Christ's
younger brother. This was
- one of the bloodiest wars ever fought; only World War II killed
more people.
In 1895, China lost the Sino-Japanese war and ceded Taiwan to
Japan.
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The 20th century brought revolution. The empire
was overthrown in 1911 and Sun Yat Sen, a doctor, nationalist, socialist
and democrat, became president.
After the 1895 war Japan continued its imperial expansion in East
Asia, invaded Manchuria in 1931 and conquered much of China by the
late 30s. China had other problems as well, such as civil unrest and
major famines. The Communists under Mao Zedong and the Kuomintang
(the party Sun Yat Sen founded) under Chiang Kai Shek often fought
each other when they might better have been fighting Japanese. Various
warlords and bandits fought whoever they felt like in order to preserve
their local power.
After World War II, outright civil war broke out. More Chinese were
killed in this than in resisting Japan. By 1949, the Communists had
won and the Kuomintang armies, government and many supporters fled
to Taiwan which had been returned to Chinese control in 1945.
The Communist government imposed strict controls over everyday life;
basically, the Party ran everything. They also indulged in various
experiments such as the Great Leap Forward, intended to industrialise
China quickly, and the Cultural Revolution, aimed at changing everything
by discipline and attention to Mao Zedong Thought. These failed at
disastrous cost.
Mao Zedong died in 1976 and was replaced by his appointed successor
Hua Guofeng. A series of failed economic policies weakened Hua's position
in the Party leadership and enabled Deng Xiaoping's rise. After 1978,
Deng gradually introduced market-oriented reforms and decentralized
economic decision making, and output quadrupled by 2000. Political
controls remain tight even though economic controls continue to be
relaxed.
The current leader, Hu Jintao has promised to reign in China's economic
growth and channel investment and prosperity into China's hinterlands
which have been largely left behind in the economic boom since 1978.
Much of this policy has involved tax relief to the peasantry and infrastructure
development to encourage investment in underdeveloped areas.
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| Dynasties and capitals |
| Many cites have been capitals of China, or of various
smaller states in periods when China was split up. Beijing and Nanjing
mean Northern capital and Southern capital respectively; each has
been the capital several times. Chinese sometimes refer to Tokyo as
Dongjing, Eastern capital. |
- The earliest dynasties — the semi-legendary Xia and the
Shang or Yin (from roughly 1700 BC to 1027 BC) — ruled only
the Yellow River valley and had their capital near Anyang in Henan.
- The Zhou Dynasty, 1027-221 BC, had their first capital at Hao
near modern Xi’an. After a military defeat in 771 BC, they
continued as the Eastern Zhou with cpaital Luoyang.
- The Qin Dynasty, 221-206 BC, were the first to unite an area
anything like all of China. Their capital was at Xianyang. Our
word "China" probably comes from the Wade-Giles romanisation
Ch'in.
- The Han Dynasty, 206 BC to 220 AD, had its capital at Xi’an.
This was the period of the first Sil Road trade. Chinese still
use Han as the name of their largest ethnic group.
- Then for a few hundred years, 220-618, China was not united.
Capitals of various important states included Luoyang, Nanjing
and Suzhou.
- The Tang Dynasty, 618-907, had its capital at Xi’an.
- The Song dynasty, 979-1279, had its capital at Hangzhou. Marco
Polo, who was there a few years after the Mongols conquered the
Song, describes it as one of the richest and most beautiful cities
on Earth.
- The Yuan (Mongol) dynasty, 1279-1368, used the area that is
now Beijing as their capital. Polo mentions it under the name
Canbulac, the Khan's camp.
- The Ming dynasty, 1368-1644, initially had Nanjing as their
capital then moved the capital to Beijing. They built most of
the famous buildings in Beijing — Forbidden City, Temple
of Heaven and so on.
- The Qing (Manchu) dynasty, 1644-1911, used Beijing as the capital
of China but they had their own Manchu capital at Shenyang.
- The Republic of China, who ruled China 1911-1949, moved the
capital back to Nanjing. Today they control only Taiwan and Taipei
is their "temporary capital". During the Second World
War, Chongging was also a temporary capital.
- Beijing has been the capital of China since the Communist victory
in the civil war, 1949.
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Currency
The official currency of the People's Republic of China is the renminbi
(??? "People's Money"), often abbreviated RMB. The official
base unit of this currency is the yuan (?), international currency
code CNY. All prices in China are denoted in yuan, usually either
as ¥ or ?.
The yuan was pegged at 8.29 to the US dollar until 2005 when the Chinese
government revalued it somewhat and linked it to a basket of currencies.
It stayed around 8 yuan to the dollar for most of 2005 and 2006, and
as of December is at 7.80. Various other governments are pressing
China to further revalue the yuan, which would make Chinese exports
more expensive and foreign imports cheaper in China. An eventual further
change, increasing the value of the yuan, seems almost certain but
a sudden dramatic change appears quite unlikely.
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The official subdivisions of the yuan are the jiao
(?), at 10 jiao to the yuan, and the fen (?) at 10 fen to the jiao.
A coin worth ¥0.10 will thus say ?? ("1 jiao"), not
"10 fen", on it. But in colloquial Mandarin nobody ever
speaks of yuan; the standard term is kuai (?), and the jiao is also
dubbed the mao (?) instead. The fen remains the same, so a price like
?3,75 would thus be read as "3 kuai 7 mao 5 fen" (although
the trailing unit is often omitted).
When dealing with numbers, note that for example "wu bai san,"
literally "five hundred three," means 530 or "five
hundred three tens," with the trailing unit dropped. The number
503 would be read as "wu bai ling san," literally "five
hundred zero three." Similarly "yi qian ba", literally
"one thousand eight", means 1800. When using larger numbers,
keep in mind that Chinese has a word for ten thousand, wàn
(?), and thus for example 50000 becomes "wu wan", not "wu
shi qian".
Note also that a lot of Chinese currency will be in the form of bills
— even small change. These days there seems to be a shift towards
coins for obvious reasons of convenience. In the meantime though even
the jiao, at just one tenth of a yuan, exists as both a bill (the
smallest) and two different coins. Conversely, one kuai exists both
as a coin and as two different bills. You should be prepared to recognize
and handle either version! Counterfeiting is really
a major problem, especially of ¥50 and ¥100 bills
— when you buy currency, ask the teller to check for counterfeit
bills. Examine all such bills you receive as change. Be suspicious
when you get several bills with lower denominations on top. Counterfeit
notes bear a watermark, which looks good to an inexperienced eye.
Better try to get used to the slightly coarse surface on genuine bills.
Counterfeits have very (too) bright and luminous colours and a very
fine surface. It is not considered impolite to refuse bills
and to ask to have them changed.
Try to break your hundreds at larger stores or restaurants so you
do not have to accept a fifty (the most commonly counterfeited note)
in change from a taxi driver.
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| Changing money |
Obtaining RMB in western countries can be a difficult
or impossible task, and even where available the exchange rates are
generally extremely unfavorable. It's generally less problematic to
wait until arrival and using your debit or credit card in a local
cash machine, which can be found everywhere in most towns. In recent
years the official exchange rates have been close to market value,
so official exchange rates can provide amounts similar to, or better
than, unofficial ones. The airports in Beijing and Shanghai have cash
machines which accept most international debit/credit cards. Be sure
to check for the Plus or Cirrus symbols (whichever your bank supports),
as there are many ATMs which are not linked to international networks
and may retain your card, a very unpleasant prospect. If you have
trouble because the ATM requires a 6 digit PIN and you only have 4
digits, try 2 leading zeroes! Also, when venturing into more remote
regions it is advisable to carry sufficient cash, as ATMs with international
network access may not be available.
Foreign currency and/or traveller's cheques can be exchanged into
RMB in most hotels and banks with varying levels of difficulty, and
you will be required to show a passport or identification. Your signature
on your passport will be compared with the signature on the traveller's
cheques, and your cheques and passport itself may be scrutenized to
be sure of authenticity. If the signatures aren't an exact match you
may be denied. Providing a receipt with a matching signature may help.
Using dual signature travellers cheques such as those provided by
American Express can cause quite a hassle if both parties aren't present.
As well, carrying travellers cheques for a currency other than your
own causes suspicion and concern even at major banks. A Canadian citizen
using American travellers cheques took almost two hours to cash them
at a major branch of the Bank of China.
Exchanging US currency for RMB can be much simpler, but expect the
bills to be heavily scrutinized before the exchange is processed.
Opportunities to buy RMB before entering China, for example when coming
overland from Hong Kong or Vietnam, should be taken, as the rates
are better. The same is true going the other way--selling just across
the boarder will often net a more favourable rate. Also, most banks
will allow you to get a cash advance via a debit or credit card. It's
useful to carry an international currency such as British Pounds,
US Dollars, or Japanese Yen to fall back on should you not have access
to a cash machine. Keep all your exchange receipts
as you will need them to exchange RMB back into your original currency
(this is to ensure that only RMB bought in China is bought back--the
economic logic is too arcane to go into here). This includes cash
withdrawls from ATMs, and any other exchange medium. Exchanging currency
outside of official channels (ie if you lose your receipts) is technically
illegal, although enforcement of these currency controls is lax.
Look out for fake Y100 and Y50 notes. Usually a reliable
way is to look at the greenish metallic number at the bottom left,
a genuine one changes colour as you angle it away from you. Suspicious
locals will also look at the watermark of Mao through a light, and
feel for texture on the crest next to Mao's bust. If you happen upon
a vendor who will not accept a suspect note, don't dispair. Suggesting
they get the opinion of people nearby (there are always people around
in China) often works to alleviate some paranoia. If that doesn't
work, use another note and try your luck elsewhere.
It is important to be aware that electronic money transfers to another
country are either a hassle or impossible in all but a handful of
large cities on the east coast and in the far south. Throughout most
of the country, the vast majority of banks don't offer this service,
and the ones that do, charge unreasonably high service charges, the
staff is often not properly trained to do the transfer efficiently
and/or correctly, and the process can take anywhere from two to seven
days. Western Union is available (although there aren't many outside
of the biggest cities), less expensive and sometimes more professional.
That said, it is not unknown to encounter an employee at WU that hardly
knows what he/she is doing. For example, the employee may insist that
you give the bank the recipient's passport number and/or visa number
even though that person is not in the country, has never been to the
country and doesn't plan to come to the country. (That bizarre and
highly unprofessional scenario happens as a matter of course at the
WU office in Chengdu's Agricultural Bank of China, for example. This
renders the transfer literally impossible. It is always best to use
WUs inside post offices. However, it is quite common to go to a WU
inside a post office only to learn that their "system" is
"down".)
If you open a foreign currency account or a dual currency account,
check if you will be able to access it in another province (e.g. the
Bank of China does not allow this as of 2006).
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| Shopping & Bargaining |
Outside of hotels, acceptance of credit cards is
infrequent, and most transactions will require cash. Beware of pickpockets.
Many stores have point-of-sale terminals for Chinese bank cards; typically
these will not work for foreign cards. If you are going to spend a
lot of time in China and use significant amounts of money, get a Chinese
bank account.
In general, anything with a marked price tends to be sold at that
price or slightly below, but there is large room for bargaining if
there is no stamped price. If you are buying anything which is not
from a fixed price store, bargaining is normal, though you may get
a better price if you let a local person do the buying for you. Vendors
will charge the lowest price to local people (who can speak the dialect),
next lowest price to other Chinese nationals, and the highest price
to foreigners. Bear in mind, however, that some middle and upper class
locals may not be willing to bargain as mercylessly as you would.
Many visitors come looking for antiques, and hunting in the flea markets
can be great fun. Be aware however that the overwhelming majority
of the "antique" items you will be shown are fakes, no matter
how convincing they look. You are advised not to spend serious money
unless you know what you are doing, since novices are almost always
taken for a ride.
In bargaining over price, local people will tend to engage in hard
bargaining behavior that foreigners may consider rude (e.g. commenting
unfavorably on the quality of the merchandise). Discussions over price
generally remain calm however - Monty Python style histrionics usually
fail to make progress.
As a tourist, every vendor is going to try to make you overpay. To
get a good idea of accurate pricing, pick an item that you want, and
is common to many stalls. Call an absurdly low price (like 1-5% of
the calling price) for it. When they say "No. Are you crazy?",
look at the item a bit longer, and start to leave. They will call
out progressively lower and lower prices for the item, the farther
you get from them. Remember the lowest price they call out (they may
even accept your "absurdly low" price). Go to the next stall,
and repeat, with a price that is about 50-75% of the previous lowest.
Eventually, you will find a fair price. You can obtain obscenely low
prices this way, but don't abuse your bargaining power! Many people
depend on making decent margins off of tourists to survive. It never
hurts to pay a little more than the lowest price, and it might make
all the difference to a poor merchant whose monthly rent or food costs
may be little more than your purchase price.
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| What to Look for/ buy from china |
| China excels in handmade items, partly because of
long traditions of exquisite handmade items, partly because labor
is still cheap relative to other countries. Take your time, look closely
at quality and ask questions (but don't take all the answers at face
value!) |
- Porcelain with a long history of porcelain making, China still
makes great porcelain today. Most visitors are familiar with blue
and white, but the variety of glazes is much greater, including
many lovely monochrome glazes which are worth seeking out. Specialist
shops near hotels and the top floors of department stores are
a good place to start, though not the cheapest. The "antique"
markets are also a good place to find reproductions, though it
can be hard to escape from attempts to convince you that the items
are genuine antiques (with prices to match). Two of the most famous
centers for porcelain are Jingdezhen and Quanzhou.
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- Furniture in the last 15 years China has become a major source
of antique furniture, mostly sourced from China's vast countryside.
As the supply of old items dwindles many of the restorers are
now turning to making new items. The quality of the new pieces
is often excellent and some great bargains can still be had in
new and old items. Furniture tends to be concentrated in large
warehouses on the outskirts of town, Beijing, Shanghai and Chengdu
all have plenty of these. Hotels will tell you how to find them.
They can also arrange shipment in most cases. Zhongshan has a
huge furniture market.
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- Art and Fine Art the art scene in China is divided into two
non-interacting parts. On the one side there are the traditional
painting academies, specializing in "classical" painting
(bird and flower, landscapes with rocks and water, calligraphy),
with conservative attitudes and serving up painting that conforms
to the traditional image of Chinese art. On the other hand there
is a burgeoning modern art scene, including oil painting, photography
and sculpture, bearing little relation to the former type. Both
"scenes" are worth checking out and include the full
range from the glorious to the dreadful. The center of the modern
scene is undoubtedly Beijing, where the Da Shan Zi (sometimes
called 798) warehouse district is emerging as the new frontier
for galleries, reminiscent of New York's Soho in the mid-80s.
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- Jade There are two types of Jade in China today: one type is
pale and almost colorless and is made from a variety of stones
mined in China. The other type is green in color and is imported
from Myanmar (Burma) - if genuine!. The first thing to be aware
of when buying Jade is that you will get what you pay for (at
best). Genuine Burmese jade with a good green color is extraordinarily
expensive and the "cheap" green jade you will see in
the markets is made either from synthetic stone or from natural
stone that has been colored with a green dye. When buying jade
look closely at the quality of the carving (How well finished
is it? Is it refined, or crude with tool marks visible?). The
quality of the stone often goes along with the quality of the
carving. Take your time and compare prices before buying. If you
are going to spend a fair sum of money, do it in the specialist
stores, not in the fleamarkets. Khotan in Xinjiang is a famous
area for jade.
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- Carpets China is home to a remarkable variety of carpet-making
traditions. These include Mongolian, Ningxia, Tibetan and modern
types. Many tourists come looking for silk carpets: these are
actually a fairly recent "tradition", most of the designs
being taken from middle-eastern traditions rather than reflecting
Chinese designs. Be aware that though the workmanship is quite
fine on these carpets they often skimp on materials, particularly
dyes. These are prone to fading and color change if the carpet
is displayed in a brightly lit place. Some excellent wool carpets
are also made in China. Tibetan carpets are amongst the best in
terms of quality and construction, but be aware that most carpets
described as Tibetan are not made in Tibet, with a few notable
exceptions. As with jade, best to buy from stores with a reputation
to uphold.
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- Other arts and Crafts Other things to look for include Cloisonne
(colored enamels on a metal base), laquer work, masks, kites,
wood carving, scholar's rocks (decorative rocks, some natural,
some less so), papercuts, and so on.
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Emergency numbers
The following emergency telephone numbers work in all areas of China:
Police: 110
Fire Alarm: 119
Medical care: 120 (or 999 in some places)
Directory Enquiry: 114
Calling these from a cell phone is free.
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| Stay safe |
Banned items
Lonely Planet's China guidebook has upset the Chinese authority with
its contents and is now banned in China. Any copy found will be confiscated
and the owner of the copy may face interrogation and detention. Lonely
Planet suggests that travellers hide their guidebooks and has been
criticised for being irresponsible for ultimately it is the carriers
of the guidebooks who might get into trouble.
Crime
Petty crime remains relatively low, and it is common for people to
quietly carry large amounts of cash. At the same time, one should
take the usual precautions against being conspicuously wealthy. In
some areas, there are many pickpockets. In crowded markets, buses,
and even dance clubs it is common for wallets and mobile phones to
disappear. Items such as purses left unguarded at restaurants are
also liable to be stolen. Traffic
Walking, especially in rural areas, can be very dangerous because
of oncoming traffic. Pedestrians do not have the right of way. Traffic
will not stop if they see you in the way -- in fact, they may speed
up! In most places, the rules of the road are often ignored and the
safest way to cross a street is via a pedestrian overpass, if available.
More generally, traffic in China can be very dangerous. The PRC does
not recognize international drivers licenses and driving in China
is definitely not for the faint of heart.
Begging
Begging in China is uncommon, with the notable exception of major
tourist areas. In Beijing begging is exceptionally bad, especially
around hotels and markets foreigners frequent. Shanghai has also seen
a return of the child begging gangs from the pre-revolutionary era.
Giving to one child beggar may lead to many more coming out of the
woodwork. Beggars in China are almost exclusively professional and
many have obvious deformities, which makes it easy to take pity on
them. Others are fully functional and will use their strength to latch
on to your leg or arm until you give them some cash or drag them for
a few minutes. Children are frequently coerced into begging by adults,
who force the children to beg and then take the money that they collect.
In some areas, especially Beijing, beggars are often rather aggressive
and persistent, even though there are traditionally strong social
norms against begging, as it is considered shameful. The Mandarin
phrase "qu ni de", literally "go to your (place)",
has roughly the force of "bugger off". It might be appropriate
for rude aggressive beggars, almost certainly not for others.
If you do feel it appropriate to give a beggar some money keep in
mind that many Chinese only make ¥20 to 30 per day working hard
labor jobs. Giving one yuan to a beggar is generous.
Scams
While begging is considered shameful, aggressive marketing of petty
services that a person can perform is not. Some people will aggressively
try to perform some sort of service for you, such as watching your
luggage, steer you to a "great" hotel or have you ride in
their taxi. They will often follow you for a while, so be prepared
to ignore them. The Mandarin phrase "bu yao", literally
"not want", is useful for these.
On the other hand, some of the services offered are worthwhile. Typical
prices are ¥1 for a shoe shine, ¥10 for a shampoo and head
massage or ¥15 with a haircut, and anywhere from ¥15 to ¥50
an hour for massage. Consider indulging yourself.
In touristy places, be cautious about unknown people approaching you
on the street and striking up a conversation in English, as this may
be a prelude to a scam. They are often students of or dropouts from
English teacher schools and make money by abusing their English proficiency.
Be polite, but there is no need to come along if they start insisting
on you coming with them some special place you had not planned on
going to. Some however are genuinely curious locals who want nothing
more than a chat and a photo with foreigners.
One common scam is the free art gallery tour. Tourists are lured into
small shabby art shops and pressured to buy overpriced Chinese art
which is nothing but a copy. In Beijing this is most common, but also
in other big cities such as Shanghai it happens when strolling touristy
places.
Also beware of the scam operating in many of the larger cities where
attractive women or a friendly group of students entice you into a
tea shop, bars or karaoke parlor. They show you a menu with a price
on it and once you finish your drinks and ask for the bill, they produce
another menu with a much higher price on it. It's wise to verify prices
in writing.
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Talk:
The official language of China is Standard Mandarin, known in Chinese
as Putonghua (???, "common speech"). It has been the only
language used in education on the mainland since the 1950s, so most
people speak it. However, the pronunciation varies quite a lot from
region to region. Unless otherwise noted, all terms, spellings and
pronunciations in this guide are standard Mandarin.
Many regions - especially in the southeast of the country - also
have their own "dialect". These are really distinct languages,
as different as French and Italian although referring to Chinese
"dialects" as separate languages is a touchy political
issue. Of true dialects within Mandarin, pronunciation varies widely
and there is often a liberal dose of local slang or terminology
to liven up the mix. The largest dialect groups are Cantonese, spoken
in Guangdong (Canton) and Hong Kong, Wu (Shanghainese), spoken in
the region around Shanghai, and Minnan (Hokkien, Teochew), spoken
in the region around Xiamen. Many Chinese are bilingual in the local
language and Mandarin. A few who are older, less educated or from
the countryside may speak only the local dialect, but this is unlikely
to affect tourists. It often helps to have a guide that can speak
the local language as it marks that person as an insider, and you
as a friend of the insider. As a general rule, almost all Chinese
can understand spoken Mandarin even if they are unable to reply
except in their local dialect.
Whatever the spoken dialect, the written language is always the
same. Even Japanese and Korean use many of the same characters with
the same meaning. There is a complication in this, however. Mainland
China uses "simplified characters", adopted to facilitate
literacy education some years back. Traditional characters are used
in Taiwan, Hong Kong, Japan, and by many overseas Chinese, but also
on the mainland in advertising and commercial signs. As a result
you will just as often see ?? (yínháng) as ?? for
"bank". The simplification was however fairly systematic,
which means that all hope is not lost for the traveller trying to
pick up some sign-reading skills.
In the far western reaches of the country, Turkic languages such
as Uighur, Kirghiz and Kazakh are spoken by some of the non-Han
ethnic minorities. In tourist areas however, Mandarin or English
will likely be usable.
English speakers
Although most Chinese are taught some English at school, and passing
an English exam is a requirement for a university degree, the focus
of the instruction is formal grammar and writing rather than conversation.
As a result, few learn it well enough to be able to participate
in an English conversation. Outside of the largest cities and the
major tourist areas, it is quite rare to find locals who speak decent
English.
That said, a few locals who have studied English to university level
(especially if abroad) generally have a reasonable to very good
standard of English.
Useful hint: it's often helpful if you try to simplify your English.
Stay away from using complex phrasing like "Would you mind
if I come back tomorrow?" and stick to simpler, more abrupt
phrasing like "I will come back tomorrow."
Learning Chinese
In the West, Chinese has an undeserved reputation as being exceptionally
difficult to learn. While it is very different from English or other
Western languages, there is no reason that a traveller can not learn
a bit of Chinese; every bit you learn will be of enormous help.
The main difficulty with learning to speak Chinese is the pronunciation;
basic grammar is very simple.
Written Chinese is famously complex, however there is the advantage
of it being easier to learn a bit of. In alphabetic writing systems,
you can't understand anything until you know the whole alphabet
and speak a good deal of the language. In Chinese on the other hand
it's very straightforward to pick up the characters, for example
for "Internet Cafe" or "Fried Noodles", without
knowing anything else about the language. If you have a good visual
memory, you may even end up knowing what a sign means, without being
able to pronounce it out loud — still a useful skill even
if only to distinguish, say, the exit ?? from the entrance ??. To
bridge the gap between recognizing and reading out loud, pinyin
was developed, which uses latin script to help teach Chinese to
schoolchildren and foreigners. It is not obvious, as letters and
combinations are not what you would expect, but learning it at even
a basic level already has enormous practical value for the traveller.
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Transportation in Southeast Guizhou
How to Get There?
Southeast Guizhou region is relatively less developed but transportation
in the area is not as harsh as recorded on many guidebooks. A comprehensive
network of highway centered on Kaili-the capital city of the region
has been built to connect almost every village in recent years. 2
of the best options to getting there is: a.) from North, Take a train
to Kaili and change to coach to the mountainous villages; b.) from
South, Take flights or train to Guilin, and then coach to these villages.
On the way you can visit Longsheng, Sanjiang. Getting
Around:
The best way to get around is to travel from village to village. Although
roads are built recently to connect every village together, bus conditions
can always make your trip uncomfortable. And limited transport and
lack of information makes independent traveling a more difficult thing.
One of the good solutions is that to hire a car and a tour guide who
knows the areas, know the culture and history that behind the villages.
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Tips:
- You are advised not to travel by bus in the rainy day or at
night because there are many mountain roads and the roads condition
is not so good and safe.
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Festivals in China
Dong New Year
The Dong New Year is the most important traditional festival among
Dong people. Dong people don’t celebrate their New Year at a
same time. The Dongs in Jiuzhao Dong Township of Jinping County and
most of the Dong villages in Rongjiang County celebrate their New
Year at the time from the end of October to the beginning of November
of the lunar calendar. These people also celebrate an accompanying
New Year, the New Year festival that the Dong people in the neighboring
villages celebrate. That is quite a good chance to promote the friendship
between the different villages. Northern Dong Singing
Parties
Singing parties are important occasions for young Dong people to get
to know each other and to date their lovers. Dong people have several
singing parties throughout the year. The Northern Dong Singing Parties
are the ones mainly attended by young Dong people from the northern
Miao and Dong Prefecture in Southeastern Guizhou. Miao
New Year
The Miao New Year is a grand festival celebrated by the Miao people
from Kaili, Leishan, Danzhai, Rongjiang and Taijiang counties from
October 26th to December 13th of the lunar calendar. The festival
is divided into Preliminary Eve, the New Year and the Epilogue. The
New Year is the most important part, when people dance Lusheng dances,
watch bullfight or birdfight.
Bullfight
Lots of Villages in the Miao & Dong Autonomous Prefecture in Southeastern
Guizhou (southeastern Guizhou for short) regularly hold bullfight
competition every year. The bulls for the bullfight do not take part
in the plough or some other work in fields.
New Harvest Festival
The New Harvest Festival is an important festival that Miao and Dong
people celebrate at the end of summer and beginning of autumn (different
villages celebrate the day at different time). People use bud seeds
or the new harvested glutinous rice as sacrifice to worship their
ancestors. On the day of the festival, people get dressed up, take
their presents along and lead their bulls to go to the host village
(the village which is celebrating the festival). After the host worships
the ancestors, they have a big harvest dinner. On the second day,
people watch bullfight and bird fight and race horses. They have Lusheng
dance. At dusk, young people will sing musical dialogues in antiphonal
style. The celebration will last until the dusk of the third day.
Gushe Festival
Gushe Festival, also called Guzang Festival, is one of the most ceremonious
traditional festivals among the Miao people in the region of Leigong
and Moon (yueliang in Chinese) mountains. It is held once every 13
years in the tiger year and it usually lasts for seven days. People
kill ox to worship their ancestors during the festival
Customs:
Cockfight
Before the cockfight people will cover the cock with a piece of red
cloth and then hold it to worship and sacrifice to the Heaven and
the Earth. The cock-owner drinks the first two glasses of alcohols
and pour the third one on the cock. There is no time limit or game
limits during the cockfight. They only fight once to make the champion.
The Miao nationality is famous for their animals-imitation dancing
such as cockfight dancing.
Wine Custom
There is a rule among the Miao and Dong Villages in the autonomous
counties in southeastern Guizhou Province—no wine no etiquette,
no wine no feast. Every family has one or two jars of rice wine made
of sticky rice, spirit containing 20%-30% of alcohol.
Tai Guanren (Carrying the Government Official in a Sedan Chair)
Tai Guanren is a festival ethnic show in the Dong nationality villages
in Liping and Congjiang, such as Jitang in Liping and Longtu in Congjiang.
Tai Guanren in Chinese menas carrying the government official in a
sedan chair. Usually, a boy will act as a rich and powerful government
official, and another boy will act as his chamberlain or private adviser.
The government official takes the sedan chair, while the chamberlain
takes a wooden bucket, with a band ahead to clear the way and followed
by clowns. They give the funny performance together until they reach
the drum tower. Tai guanren gives us a vivid picture of the Dongs
customs.
Singing in the Moonlight
Singing in the moonlight is a usual social activity among the young
Dong people. Usually, girls who often work together have their own
singing group. They gather together at a singing hall at night, which
is also called Moon Hall (get the name from the moon at night). It
is also an entertaining place for boys. In Dongs, the Singing hall
just like the KTV, bars, cafes in the city, is a wonderful place for
the young people to communicate with each other. Welcome
the Guests in the Way
It is the warmest welcome in the Dongs to receive the guests in the
way. Actually, it happens when the Dongs invite guests to have a together
or invite a friend-singing group to come to give performances.When
the host hears the Lusheng (a reed-pipe wind instrument used by Miao,
Yao and Dong nationalities) from the guest, the host will get ready
for the welcome ceremony.
Exorcising Dance
Exorcising Dance originated from the ancient sacrifice and pray-for-blessings
actions, which is now popular in Cengong and Zhenyuan counties etc.
The exorcising dance in Cengong is the most famous
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